Services
At Backyard Pools, we know that long term success comes by providing long term customer satisfaction. We have a saying: "We don't just sell pools, we enter into relationships." We want to make sure that you have many years of care-free enjoyment from your pool or spa. We offer a full line of accessories to compliment your pool or spa.
We feature the top lines of:
Equipment
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Chemicals
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Accessories
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Year-Round Service Department
The staff of trained technicians and maintenance people in our pool services group are here to serve you.
A full line of pool equipment parts and stocked service trucks are ready to go on the road to handle any service, maintenance or pool renovation project you may have.
Click here to request service.
General Information and Troubleshooting
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Filters | |
Pumps | |
Heaters/Heat Pumps | |
Heaters | |
Energy Conservation |
Frequently Asked Questions
FILTERS
Q: What is the difference between a sand, cartridge, and D.E. filter?
A: Sand filter range: 20 to 40 microns. The oldest and most popular method of filtrations is sand. Sand filters use a special filter sand, normally .45 to .55 mm (also known as pool-grade #20 silica sand) because it has sharp edges that serve to separate particles, allowing filtration to take place. Sand filters are the least expensive of the three types of filters but only filters particles down to 20 to 40 microns in size.
Cartridge filter range: 10 to 20 microns. Cartridge filtration has been available for a relatively long time, and recently has begun to enjoy rapid growth and acceptance. When water passes through a cartridge filter, dirt is screened out at the surface of the cartridge element. When clean, the element will trap larger particles, with finer particles being filtered out as the pores of the element become clogged by the larger debris. The cartridge element can be removed and cleaned by pressure washing inside and out with a garden hose.
D.E. (Diatomaceous Earth) filtration range: 1 to 3 microns. Many pool professionals consider D.E. filtration to be the finest, because it is capable of removing smaller particles than either sand or cartridge filters. Diatomaceous earth is a porous powder with microscopic openings that, when magnified, look like tiny sponges. Clear water can pass through these openings, but particles as small as one to three microns are trapped the first pass through the media. All D.E. filters have internal elements that become coated with D.E. It is this filter cake that strains dirt, dust, algae, and some forms of bacteria from the water. Similar to sand filters, when a D.E. filter becomes dirty, it is cleaned either by backwashing the clogged D.E. to the waste line or regenerating and draining. To restore filtration, a fresh charge of D.E. is added to the filter.
Q: Should I upgrade to a larger filter?
A: Pool water filtration is the heart of your water care system. Depending on the size and style of the filter selected, you can achieve energy savings and improved water clarity by reducing the time and energy your pump must exert to cycle the entire body of water in your pool during a 12-hour period. Save energy and time by selecting a larger filter versus a standard filter size. A larger filter provides more filtration area, thus reducing back-pressure buildup over time, and strain on your pump. A larger filter can extend the periodic maintenance cycle, thus saving the homeowner valuable time.
Q: My filter pressure gauge has dropped below normal for a clean filter. What should I do?
A: If your filter pressure gauge indicates that pressure has dropped below the normal reading for a clean filter, check to see if you have a clogged pump or skimmer basket.
Q: Should I do anything to my filter or equipment when I close my pool down for the winter?
A: Cleaning your sand or D.E. filters when you close your pool for the season will ensure that they are ready for action when you open your pool the following summer. When closing your pool for the season, coat all accessible o-rings, rubber fittings, and gaskets with a silicone O-ring lube to keep them from drying out.
Q: Is there any way of sealing a leak in a filter tank?
A: Unfortunately, there is no way to safely seal a leak in a filter tank. The best option is to replace the tank.
Q: The valve on top of my screw top fiberglass filter keeps popping off when the pressure reaches 15 psi. What can I do to correct this?
A: A valve blowing off the top of the filter is a serious problem. We highly recommend that you purchase a new filter immediately. We would not recommend running the filter under these conditions.
Q: How do I clean my filter's cartridge?
A: When cleaning cartridge filters, soak them in a cleaning solution for 24 hours, then hose them off before reinstalling. Now available at Backyard Pools are Cleaning Wands.
Q: How often should I clean my D.E filter?
A: You should change your D.E. after backwashing your filter.
Q: How often should I change my D.E.?
A: You should change your D.E. after backwashing your filter.
Q: I seem to have to regenerate my D.E. filter frequently. Could too little D.E. be the cause?
A:Yes, too little D.E. could cause your pressure to go up. Too little D.E. would not coat the grids and the debris that you filter would get embedded in the grid cloth causing it to become clogged. You probably should take the grid assembly out, clean it off, and soak it in a solution of BioGuard's chemical cleaner Kleen It. After soaking, spray off the grid assembly thoroughly. Finally, reassemble it and precoat it with the correct amount of D.E. (refer to your owner's manual). You should see a big difference in the performance of the grid assembly.
Q: I have a D.E. filter. Do I need to add diatomaceous earth to the filter through the skimmer before or after I backwash?
A: Diatomaceous earth should be added to the filter after backwashing.
Q: How does the micron filtration rating for a D.E. filter compare with that of a cartridge filter & sand filter?
A: A sand filter rates at approximately 20-40 microns while Cartridge filters are rated at approximately 10-20 microns. D.E. filters are rated at approximately 1-3 microns. So you will get better filtration with the D.E. filter. You can make a cartridge filter a little more efficient by adding 1/4 to 1/2 pound of D.E. through the skimmer.
Q: Why is dirt passing through my sand filter?
A: A number of things could be causing the problem. It could mean that a lateral is cracked or broken, or a valve may need servicing. Or, air may be passing through the filter, causing a channeling effect that permits dirt to get by the filter. In the latter case, there may be nothing wrong with the filter.
Q: I have a 10-year-old sand filter. How can I determine if the sand needs to be replaced?
A: The general recommendation is to backwash your filter when the pressure reaches 10 psi over the initial start up pressure. For example, if the start up pressure is 15 psi, you should backwash when the pressure reaches 25 psi. If the pressure does not return to the start up pressure after backwashing, it is time to change the sand. Recommended sand change is above ground every 2-3 years, in ground every 3-5 years.
Q: I have a sand filter and I'm getting a lot of sand in the bottom of my pool. Do you think there is something broken inside the filter, or do I have another problem?
A: If you are getting a lot of sand in the pool there may be a lateral broken in the bottom of the filter. If this is the case, the lateral(s) will have to be replaced.
Q: How can I find out how many pounds of sand I need to put in my sand filter?
A: Refer to your filter owner's manual or the sales associates in the store can help you determine the amount your filter uses.
Q: How do I change the sand in my top mount sand filter?
A: To replace the sand in your filter you must first disconnect the pipes going into the valve on top of the filter. Next, unscrew the complete valve counter-clockwise. Once the valve has been removed, you will be able to see the sand bed. The best way to remove the sand is to either use a portable vac or just dip it out with a small can. Once the old sand has been removed, fill the tank 2/3 full of water and just pour the new sand in. DO NOT get sand in the vertical pipe sticking up from the bottom of the filter tank.
PUMPS
Q: My pump motor hums but will not start. What can I do?
A: Turn off the power and check to see if the impeller is clogged with debris.
Q: My pump doesn't run. What can I do?
A: Check the power, breakers, switches, etc. If you have a timer on the system, make sure it is working properly.
Q: Why does my pump cut off every 5-10 seconds?
A: Your motor is wired to the wrong voltage. Most in-ground pumps can be connected to either 115 or 230v. Shut off the pump at once and have your electrician check the problem and correct.
Q: Can I run my pump without water?
A: Most pool pumps should never be ran without water in them. Doing so causes the pumps to overheat, potentially causing damage to the liquid end and burning out the seal.
Q: How many hours per day should my pump operate?
A: That all depends on factors such as the size of your pool, swimmer load, efficiency of your pump, the filter flow rate, etc. As a rule of thumb, however, a properly sized pool pump should probably run 10 to 12 hours a day in the summer, and 4 to 6 hours a day in the winter to provide adequate turnover.
HEATERS/HEAT PUMPS
Q: Why heat my pool?
A: You have a large investment in your backyard! By heating your pool, you and your family can extend your swimming enjoyment all year long. If you can't use it all year because the water is too cold, you are not maximizing your investment. Enjoy entertaining, exercise, and most of all relaxation, knowing your back yard paradise is always perfect.
Q: What pool heating options are available?
A: There are several:
- Solar energy: works only when there is sun, maximum temperature raise is 8-10 degrees Fahrenheit.
- Fossil fuel (LP gas, natural gas, or oil): Lowest efficiency, highest operating costs, and not environmentally safe.
- Electric resistance: The most expensive method of heating.
- Heat pump: Very efficient and reliable; the most cost-effective heating method.
Q: How can I prevent heat loss from my pool?
A: Use a pool cover or solar blanket on your pool when it's not in use. Evaporation accounts for 70% of heat loss from your pool. Also, now available are Turbo Fish—ask us!
Q: How can I save on my heating costs?
A: Purchase a heat pump. Use a pool blanket on your pool when not in use.
HEATERS
Q: How do I size a heater for my pool?
A: Determine the area (length x width) of your pool surface. Decide on the temperature rise per hour. And then consult this chart. Heat rise will vary slightly when dealing with different heaters.
Pool Size (Sq. Feet) BTU Size 500 Sq. Feet 650 Sq. Feet 800 Sq. Feet 200 1 Degree 1 Degree 1 Degree 250 1 1/2 Degrees 1 1/2 Degrees 1 1/2 Degrees 350 2 Degrees 1 3/4 Degrees 1 1/2 Degrees 400 2 1/2 Degrees 2 Degrees 1 3/4 Degrees
Q: What is the difference between an electronic and milivolt ignition?
A: Most heaters come with the option to purchase the product with either a millivolt or electronic ignition. A millivolt ignition has a constant pilot light that is used to heat the pool. While the electronic ignition turns the pilot light on and off when needed. In high wind situations it is recommended to use the electronic ignition.
Q: What is the difference between a dual and single thermostat?
A: Heater come with either a dual or a single thermostat control. The dual thermostat allows you to set different heat for both your pool and your spa. A single thermostat will allow you to control the heat of either your pool or your spa only. Almost all electronic ignitions come with a dual thermostat. If you have only a pool or only a spa you can still use the dual thermostat.
Q: My heater will not reach desired temperature. What can I do?
A: The thermostat may be set too low. If the heat loss is greater than the heater input; the heater may be too small, outside air temperature is too low, or inadequate gas supply. You may want to install a solar cover to slow heat loss.
Q: How much fuel does my heater use?
A: Propane heaters use one gallon of fuel per hour for each 91,000 BTUs of heater input. Example: A 250,000 BTU heater uses: 250,000/91,000 = 2.75 gallon per hour. Natural gas heaters use one therm (100,000) BTU per 100,000 BTU's heater size. Your gas is usually billed by therms.
Q: Why does my liner wrinkle after installation?
A: Our vinyl manufacturer has invested a great deal of time and money into discovering the causes of and the prevention of wrinkling. Wrinkles that develop in swimming pool liners after installation are caused by the vinyl absorbing water and thereby changing dimensions. Testing has shown that high levels of chlorine or bromine will initiate excessive water absorbtion into the vinyl liner and lead to wrinkles. Low pH and cyanuric acid stabilizer are also factors in wrinkle formation because the activity level of the chlorine is affected by pH and stabilizer level.
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ENERGY CONSERVATION
Q: Since building my pool, the power bill has increased considerably. Is their anything I can do to reduce it?
A: Invest in a pool controller or timer. Add wind breaks to your pool. (A 7-mph wind at the surface of a pool can increase energy consumption 300%!) Set your pool water's temperature between 78 to 82 degrees for most applications. Maintain top operating condition of your pump, filter, and heater. Maintain proper water chemistry. Use a pool cover or solar blanket on your pool when it's not in use. Evaporation accounts for 70% of heat loss from your pool. Swimming pool pumps do require energy; the bigger the pump the more energy consumed. Also, some filtration systems may require up to 24 hours to clean your pool. Most pools should stay clean with 8 - 12 hours of filtering. An upgrade to an energy efficient pump and improved filtration can cut energy consumption 15 percent or more.